Others used intimidation and violence to keep their local surf spots free from strangers and outsiders - in other words, pure localism.Īs time passed, some first-generation professional surfers quit competition to embrace free surfing but kept their sponsorship deals intact. Some moved inland to live in abandoned country farmhouses, where they grew vegetables and shaped their surfboards. Soul surfing wears many capes and, as Warshaw underlines, "some went much further with the concept than others." "Never defined by tenets or principles, soul surfing nonetheless came into its own in the mid-and late-1970s as the catchall opposition philosophy to professional surfing, which encompassed not only prize money competition but much of the surf industry and surf media," notes Matt Warshaw, author of "The Encyclopedia of Surfing." They (aim to) represent the sport's counterculture they're an informal army of unarmed soldiers or missionaries that remind us of what, in the end, surfing is all about. Soul surfers are the guardians of the ultimate joy of walking on water.
The expression "soul surfer" was first used to name a song by Johnny Fortune (1943-2006), a surf guitar hero from Warren, Ohio.
Surfing's purists are often called soul surfers. So, when the sport of surfing became a commercial hit in the Southern California beach culture, some felt the need to detach themselves from the profit-oriented side that quickly emerged from it. The practice of riding waves blends utility and pleasure, necessity and joy, and has been socially adopted by Polynesian and Peruvian societies for thousands of years. The roots of surfing are rich and culturally significant. Soul surfing is a philosophical and spiritual concept first developed and introduced in the 1960s to define the sport - or activity - in its purest form.Īs with many other sports, there is always an innate drive to seek and find the original and unadulterated values, virtues, and essence of something simultaneously special and fragile.
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